Mount Major is the easternmost peak of the Belknap Range, located in the Lakes Region of New Hampshire, just south of the White Mountains in the east-central part of the state. This region is named for the great many lakes found here, the largest of which are Lake Winnipesaukee, Lake Winnisquam, Squam Lake, and Newfound Lake. This summit offers the best views of Lake Winnipesaukee in addition to ruins from Mr. Phippen’s Hut, a stone shelter built as a refuge for hikers in 1925.
I'll begin by encouraging you to hike Mount Major during the week since this is a high-traffic trail on weekends. Take my advice a step further and wait until winter when the summer crowds and leaf peepers have receded, but don't let my warning deter you from this hike - the views are incredible! It's also a great option for families and dogs. Or friends who want to meander up the mountain while carrying a conversation. This is what four of my friends and our sister pups (sups?) did last weekend, and although it was crowded, we thoroughly enjoyed our hike.
This hike has several routes, but we took the Mount Major via Brook and Main Trail Loop, found on All Trails. This lollipop loop was 4.3 miles with an elevation gain of 1,158 ft.
The large parking area for this hike fills up quickly on weekends, so it's best to visit during the week to avoid the crowd. Shortly after beginning the Mt. Major Main Trail, you’ll see a large glacial erratic on the left, then continue along a logging road with a gentle slope. As you join the Brook Trail, the path stays easy until a steeper climb through a hardwood forest at about one and a half miles in. Expect muddy conditions in the spring and some some loose rocks on eroded sections due to several brook crossings on this trail. After another mile, you’ll find a spur on the left leading to a lovely vista, which is just a preview of better views ahead. As you leave the forested area, the trail opens up, and you’ll cross exposed ledges with wide-ranging views of Lake Winnipesaukee to the east and north. Rest and snack at one of the many viewing spots at the summit or take shelter in Mr. Phippen’s Hut, just beyond the summit, on a windy day. As you descend the Main Trail, take it slow due to some steep rock scrambles near the top. To bypass these sections, watch for several alternate routes offering detours around the steepest parts. After your hike, stroll along the dog-friendly Weirs Beach Boardwalk or relax on one of their benches, enjoying a closer view of Lake Winnipesaukee.
At the summit, you'll find what remains of Mr. Phippen's Hut. George Phippen, who purchased the mountain summit in 1914 for a whopping $125, offered the hut as a place to warm beside a wood stove or spend the night for a spectacular sunrise. In 1926, fierce winds blew the roof off the hut, which was replaced the following summer with a sturdier roof. That too was blown off in the winter winds of 1927 and was never replaced. The old roof remains on the mountainside just yards from the stone foundation of the hut. Maybe you can find it and send me a picture. Here is one of the hut, which hasn't had a roof in almost a century.
In addition to historic ruins, you'll also have sweeping views of the Major Mountain Range and Lake Winnipesaukee on this mountaintop. If you decide to do this hike, choose a weekday along with good company, and you're guaranteed to enjoy it.
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